Showing posts with label La Alberca. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Alberca. Show all posts

09 March, 2014

Pig Pickin' Spanish Style

9 March, 2014

Eighty-six percent of the world's population eats pork. I excluded Muslims and Jews, which comprise about 1 billion of the 7 billion people in the world. America is more beef-centric, but we still consume our fair share, but pig is the preference of Spain.

A few weeks ago, I wrote about my experiences at the home of Pedro and Victoria, local owners of a restaurant landmark in La Alberca. During that meal, the jubilates, or retirees, challenged the jovenes, or young people to a wager. I was involved in the wager, as both sides wanted a strong American ally. My daddy always told me, "Son, old age and treachery will beat youth and inexperience every time." That usually came right after he finished a wrestling match against me by using the reach-around maneuver, which left me incapacitated, clutching my nether regions and rolling on the floor. Experiencing a twinge of nostalgic pain in my cajones, I quickly sided with the jubilates. I could see the sparkle in a few of the old men's eyes, which told me they knew about the reach-around.

Since their Spanish was so heavily accented, and my Spanish was so poor, I really had no idea what the bet was about. All I knew was that I was in for €20 and that we were going to kill and process a pig. At that price, I knew it couldn't hurt too bad, and I am fascinated with anatomy, so what the heck?

The appointed date was March 8, so I duly noted it in my calendar, as it was about a month into the future. Yesterday finally came, and at 7:30AM I went with Pedro and my new friends, whose names I do not know, out to a country home of somebody else, whom I do not know. It was a gentlemen's farm, about 2 acres, with a little one room cabin, named La Casica, which means little house, with a Murcian twist on the spelling. Pedro showed me around the gardens. It had rows of many of the fruits and vegetables that Murcianos love. Much of what we ate that day passed straight from the garden to the table:

  • Lechuga, lettuce
  • Aho, garlic
  • Alcachofas, artichokes
  • Apio, celery
  • Naranjas, orange trees
  • Judías, which literally means "Jews", but is a kind of bean. Nobody knows why.
 As we waited for the honored guest, the pig, to arrive, we gathered at the outdoor bar, which was furnished with a full cappuccino machine. We set up several tables for processing and made a fire in the outdoor cooking area. I was the youngest guy there, at 43 years old. There were a few other men about my age. The rest of the group was a bunch of seasoned veterans. The obvious leader of the merry band, obvious because he plopped down a set of knives that would make Jason Vorhees shriek with delight, was a grizzled old fella of 80 years. He had massive forearms, his shoulders resembled lumps of granite and he was missing his left thumb, probably because he bit it off when he was a baby. In a bar fight or zombie apocalypse, I'm on his side. He knows pig. 

The pig arrived at 9AM. It was already dead and cut in half lengthwise. I was a little disappointed about that, because I really wanted to kill the pig. For any sentimentalists out there, I'm sorry, but pigs, chickens, goats, deer and cows are food. I do not want to abuse any animal, but killing any of those foods is totally appropriate. If you don't agree, we can talk about it over a big T-bone steak at the restaurant of your choice.

We unloaded the "food" from the truck and plopped it on the table, which was a big, sturdy, old kitchen/dining room table that would seat 8 people or one pig. Edward Scissorhands and his son commenced to butchering up both halves. They moved with the technical precision of coroners performing an autopsy. 

Age: Approximately 2 years
Time of Death: 24-48 hours
Cause of Death: Severe laceration to the throat
Possible Motive: Hunger

While the doctors of death hacked away, everybody else milled about or lingered near the fire. I was rapt, transfixed on the process. There is nothing I enjoy more than seeing professionals at work. That's why I was born for management. They sectioned off the pig into different categories:

  • Meat
  • Meat with fat
  • Fat with meat
  • Fat
  • Bone
As soon as they had cut off some nice pieces of loin, we threw them on the grill for breakfast. Another guy took the head, and dropped it in a pot of boiling water. They eat everything but the oink over here. 

Once we had some material to use, we started grinding up some of the fatty meat for use in different things. This is the part where my mama always says, "Don't tell me what's in the sausage."

One of the specialties in Murcia is murcilla, which is basically 
  • Boiled onions, about 5 big bags full
  • Fat, about 2 pounds
  • Pig's blood, about 1 liter
  • Spices
They pack it in a casing and boil it for about 30 minutes. It's actually very good. Even Susan likes it, as long as she doesn't think about it too long. The trick is to get the spice mixture just right, which is difficult to determine, without tasting a sample. You add the spices before you stuff the mixture into the casings, which means you have to sample it raw. Yes, that's right. R-A-W. Hackmaster's son invited me to try some and comment on what they needed to add. At first I thought he was joking, but then he took up a big pinch first, so I was obliged to join in. I told them I thought it still tasted too much like onion and needed some more salt, much to their approval. I also sampled the salchicha, or link sausage, and sobresala, raw.  It was like a scene straight out of Lord of the Flies. This was my initiation. "Kill the pig. Cut his throat. Drink his blood!"

I am now a member of the Old Boy's Club. I am also thankful that I am able to write this blog today, without any ill effects from consuming raw pork. 

I also finally know what the bet was. The Octogenarians wagered they could cook for everybody cheaper than the Twenty-somethings could provide beer and wine. That was a most foolish gamble on the part of the little ones. They literally drank themselves out of the bet, and everybody else helped them as well. The cost of food prep for about 50 people was €150, with enough pork left over for several days. The beer evaporated in the hot Spanish sun. Score one for old age and treachery. The ancianos did a reach-around and found the youngsters' wallets. 











20 October, 2013

Plaza Casino World Tour

19 October, 13

La Alberca has been celebrating something for the past two weeks. I'm sure somebody knows, but most of the people just accept it and have a fiesta. Two days ago, we had the girls dancing the night away. Last night we had a Queen tribute band, Unrisen Queen.

I have to say I was pretty impressed. They played and sang very well. "Freddie Mercury" has put on a few pounds, and he seems to have fixed those big buck teeth, but other than that, they were right on the money. Maybe this was a tribute to what Queen would have become, sort of like the Eagles. Hitting all the right notes, but not quite as fast. Walking across the stage and standing in front of the mike all night, instead of doing some crazy onstage antics. Mellow and refined but still good music. One of the back-up singers did some interpretative dance to one song. Perhaps standing in front of the mic was a good idea after all.


I did not realize how big Queen was in Spain. The whole crowd, and it was a big one, knew the words to several songs I had never even heard before. We were toward the back, so it was fun to watch the crowd interact with the band. Several generations were in attendance. Abuelos would be sitting around a table on the side, drinking a cerveza and watching their nietos as the parents sang out all the lyrics. All the chicos were cruising in and out of the plaza, doing what teenagers do. Elizabeth and Julia went to the park, the location of which is still a mystery to me. Katherine hung out with several different groups of friends all night. Susan and I watched the concert with some of our friends. We all made it home at about 2:30AM.

The whole scene reminded me of a Beach Blast in Hartsville. Several hundred people gathered together, having a good time, enjoying a little Beach Music. Some people are listening. Some are dancing. Some are just walking around.

It's life at the Plaza...




19 October, 2013

Plaza Casino--Dancing the Night Away

14 October, 13

Plaza Casino is the heart of La Alberca. It is in the middle of everything, five minutes walking distance from anywhere in town. In America, we put restaurants on highly exposed corners or outparcels of larger shopping centers. I was in a high level commercial real estate class several years ago, and the professor said that McDonald's was not in the hamburger business. They were in the real estate business. Location. Location. Location.

In L.A. the mentality is a little bit different. You can't get to Plaza Casino by car. Even if you could there is no place to park. You can't see it from the road. If you were a typical tourist, you would never even know it existed. No directional signs saying, "Plaza Casino this way". Yet, everyday for el almuerzo and every night for la cena, the whole plaza is packed. It is the place you go to hang out with friends, eat some tapas, and just relax a while.

Last night, a local dance company performed on the Plaza, so it was especially packed. You have been to these performances, if you have little girls. All the four and five year olds get up on the stage in rounds and shake their little tushies.

As the girls get progressively older, they start to resemble pole dancers, wiggling this and poking out that. Somebody is gonna be mad at me for saying that. Please forgive me. I am only making observations, not judgements. The dancers are having a great time and very few of them go on to careers in pole-dancing.



Susan and I have discovered that the American songs that we have always considered acceptable for our girls to hear often have some pretty bad lyrics. In America they delete a lot of the f-bombs, but not so in Spain. A group of 10-12 year olds was dancing the night away to some pretty raunchy lyrics, but they were in English, so I guess the girls and parents had no idea.

Back in 1998, Antonio Lomba took us to a flamenco bar in Granada. It was up in the Albayzín area and the whole restaurant/stage was cut into the side of the mountain. You literally walked into a cave. As they were dancing, Antonio interpreted for me the words of one of the songs. Flamenco is all about passion, but this was way over the top. The lyrics were basically saying, "I love you so much, I want to drink up your blood." I kept looking around for bats and the undead after that. Maybe not knowing the lyrics is better.





15 October, 2013

Making Migas, Part II

15 October, 13

Making migas ended at 2PM, but we still had 13 hours to go in our Saturday festivities. We left the back alley and headed over to another section of town, where some guys were working over a grill. They were making their own charcoal out of a big olive stump, transferring the hot coals from the fire pit to the grills, one shovel load at a time. That got me fired up. I love to see pros at work. It was just too busy for me to get in there with them, especially since I still can't communicate clearly enough. Maybe next year...

Susan and I ate bocadillos, with fresh grilled pork. They also had morcillas. Remember those blood sausage things? People were paying for them. One Euro for a sandwich and a cup of beer. People were lined up eight deep, like the concessions stand at halftime of a Clemson/Carolina football game.

The Pit Boss


The beginning shows the olive stump. They would transfer the coals to the grills as needed.
After we finished our bocadillos, Susan and I headed back to Plaza Casino to meet up with Julio, Toñi and Santi, one of their friends. We had tapas and cervezas, and our girls ate real hamburgers, which was a treat for them, since that is not too common here. We stayed there for an hour or so, then headed off to Carlos and Soledad's house.

It just so happens that Carlos, husband of Soledad, was returning from Colombia, after working there for 3 months. You might remember Soledad from Teaching English in Spain. She's the lady that almost burned down the house.

Since Carlos had been gone so long, of course Soledad wanted to have a party in his honor. It reminded me of home. Back in Pinehurst, NC we have a lot of military families associated with the Special Forces. These guys go on "trips" about 4 times a year for 3-4 months at a time. I have gotten to know several of them over the last 15 years, and I can tell you that what they really want when they first get back is a hot shower and a comfortable bed. Their families, however, want to celebrate them and the fact that they made it back alive. Who can blame them? So Sgt. Army puts on the brave face and makes one more little sacrifice for his country. They really are amazing. I keep saying I want to be like them when I grow up, but I am older than any of the soldiers. At my age, they are retiring from the Army, mostly worn out and busted up, like professional football players. We just don't realize how big a toll war takes on our soldiers. Regardless of your politics, they deserve our praise and adoration.

So Carlos got home from Colombia, which has a 6 hour time difference with La Alberca. That spells jet lag, but hey, sometimes you just gotta suck it up and party. What should we eat? How about migas? Well by now, I am a miga-making expert, seeing as how I just helped make the best dang pan of the stuff you ever laid eyes on. Carlos and some of the guys were huddled around the pan, so I chest-bumped my way into the action. I know how to stir dough into little bitty pieces.

We got the mix all ready for the salchicha and then transferred the pan to a little three-legged stand in the middle of several chairs. Soledad handed everybody a spoon, and we commenced to eating.

Toñi was the life of the party. I couldn't understand most of what she said, but it was funny just to watch.

I think she was either telling a fishing story or doing the Macarena.


Migas has its origin out in the field with shepherds. They would start with stale bread and olive oil. Everything had to be cooked in a single pan, because they couldn't tote a whole kitchen's worth of pots and pans. When it was ready, all the shepherds ate together, family style. No plates or napkins required. So that's exactly what we did, and it was great.

Everybody just sat around outside, eating migas, drinking a little vino tinto, and chatting the night away, while the kids ran around in and out of the house. After everybody was done, we went through a round of cafe solo. Then we went through a round of after dinner drinks. Then we moved to the picnic table, and most everybody opted for cerveza. Then...these Spaniards just keep going! Except Carlos, who was passed out in the hammock. His body clock was all screwed up.

We finally left Carlos and Soledad's house at 3:30AM, absolutely worn out from a day of relaxation.


14 October, 2013

Making Migas

14 October, 13

Saturday was a big day around here. I guess when your country has been around for a couple thousand years, your calendar is pretty well booked up with big events. October 12 is a good example. It is significant for us too. This is the day Columbus landed in the New World.

Really Spaniards don't need much incentive to go out and have a good time. This is a pretty amiable bunch. Perhaps it was different when they were a world power, and therefore responsible for everybody else's welfare. It's hard to have a good time with that much responsibility on your shoulders.

The morning started off with more of those infernal fireworks. I finally saw the guy lighting them off and offered, in English, to give him a nice knuckle sandwich. Sometimes it's good to be in a country that only speaks Spanish. A big crowd had gathered near Plaza Casino for the Migas Cookoff. In the South, we would be cooking Barbecue. Here they cook migas. I have a link for the recipe.

The basic ingredients for migas are flour and elbow grease. You have to constantly stir and mix the dough with oil over low heat for about an hour, before it has the right consistency. It reminds me of stuffing. Not dressing, which is a little wetter, the best example of which was at Johnson's Restaurant in Hartsville, SC. Once the dough mix is almost granular, you add the chorizo, ajo, cebollas and pimientos. Now you're talking.

One thing I have learned about cookoffs is that they are usually done by men. I'm not sure why that is. Somehow we think it's fun to get up really early and cook for big crowds, but not on a daily basis for our families.

Susan and I walked up and down the alley, looking at each contestant's mixture. At a BBQ cookoff, you can start a conversation with the guys, asking them about their recipes, their smokers, prep ideas, etc. I love doing this, mostly because you almost always end up getting free samples of Barbecue. I can't really ask these Spanish fellas what is going on, because they all respond in Spanish, which makes it difficult to segue to the free samples part. Then I found a way.

I spotted a man and woman working over their burner, stirring the migas. They didn't have a big crowd helping, so I started asking about ingredients. They seemed congenial enough, so I asked if I could help. Claro! (Of course). I grabbed a wooden spoon and commenced to stirring and chopping and flopping the dough over and over and over again, getting it down from a big lump to those little pieces of heaven. We were working pretty hard, so the guy picked up the wine bottle and offered me a drink. We don't use glasses around here for that kind of stuff. They had a little bamboo spile stuck in the bottle, and you just turned it up, Redneck style. Free samples baby.

Then Granny got in the act. She took a look at our mix and decided it was a failure, so she brought out another pan, took half of what we had and started over. Nobody argued with Granny. She got over that fire and started whipping those migas into shape. Another 30 minutes or so, more vino tinto, and we got ourselves a batch of migas! Here's the interesting part. They add grapes or pomegranates on the side. The migas is more on the dry and savory side, so the grapes and pomegranates add sweet and liquid. It was delicioso!

We start serving up plates to whoever was standing close by and celebrated with more vino tinto.

Not a bad way to start our day. That only gets us to about 2PM. I'll need to post another blog to get us through the rest of the day.

Dino con vino




Granny is large and in charge.


Stop Hunger Now!




10 October, 2013

I Like Women

10 October, 13

I was recently introduced to Padel. Now I had a lot of "paddle" in my childhood, due to my incorrigible behavior, but this is different, namely because I get to hold the paddle.

Julio's employee and cousin's wife, Alicia, invited us to play doubles. Padel is a cross between handball and tennis. The racket is a little shorter, the ball is a little heavier, and you can hit it against the walls. Alicia is a beast at Padel. We played with 3 guys and Alicia, and the guys took turns being on Alicia's team, so we could all feel what it was like to win. Her team never lost more than 2 games in a set. 6-0, 6-1, 6-2. It was a beat down. I have a linebacker mind and a kicker body, which means I hate to lose, but I can't do anything about it. Frustrating.

The whole experience put me in a contemplative mood, especially regarding women. I have come to the studied conclusion that I like women, especially really strong ones. Not Helga, the East German body-builder,
but the kind that never sink in the storms of life. If the Titanic was a man, then the lifeboats that saved everybody were women. In that case, there weren't enough women on board.

I didn't realize how strong my mama was until just a few years ago, as I watched her deal with divorce, a cancer scare, financial uncertainty and death. Those are some pretty rough waters to navigate, but her lifeboat never sank.

My sister, Becky, is another example. She has, or I should say had, a great fear of crowds, because she didn't know their names and thought everybody else did. By the way, I probably don't remember your name, so when I say something like, "Friend of mine!" or "Hey Bubba", just say, "My name is ____". Naturally, Becky shriveled up into a corner right? No, not exactly.

She went to Clemson and joined a business fraternity (co-ed), called Delta Sigma Pi, and became its president. After college she became president of the local Rotary Club. She has also started a successful construction business, raised record amounts of money for the Governor's School for Science and Math and now designs and builds robots. And she's a damn good tennis player to boot. Becky has crashed against the rocks of fear, anti-woman bias at the workplace and a host of other things, but her lifeboat never sinks.

My mother-in-law, Joyce has certainly weathered a few storms. She is a caretaker. For everybody. I have known her since 1992, and she has been taking care of somebody, a lot of somebody's, the whole time. She doesn't ask for anything. She doesn't want recognition. Joyce just brings people home.

My wife, Susan. WHEW! My wife, Susan. That woman is made of some stiff stuff. I know because I have put her through some hurricanes. At one point in our marriage, we faced complete financial ruin, because I was an idiot. I came to her, right in the eye of the storm, and apologized for the mess I had made, and she said, "No. We got into this together. We will get out of this together." I clung desperately to the sides of that lifeboat, until we reached a safe harbor.

I have come to realize a few things.
  1. Strong women are not born. They are fashioned by the storms of life.
  2. Strong women do not seek adversity, but they will not be overcome by it, when it arrives.
  3. Strong women are strong enough for themselves and others, and that is a great burden.
My girls are traveling right now through what seems to them to be gale-force winds. Moving away from friends and family. Learning a new language. Going to school in a foreign country. Eating weird stuff. Making new friends.

Their boats are strong. They come from a long line of life boats. When the big storms come, many people will be floating safely to harbor. I hurt for my girls, but I am so proud of what they are becoming. Strong women.


09 October, 2013

Teaching English in Spain

9 October, 13

People in Spain are pretty eager to learn and practice their English, as long as it is in an informal setting, when nobody is around, and they already know what they are going to say. In other words, they are pretty shy about speaking anything other than their mother tongue. It takes a while for people to warm up to you, just to make sure you won't laugh at their weird pronunciations. Usually I can catch them comprehending my English, and I give them a sly smile and say that I can tell they understand English. That's the ice-breaker.

One of our friends, Soledad, has three kids, and she is desperate for them to get some good training in English. Her oldest son, Joaquin, already speaks better English than I do. He is 12 years old, and he reads, speaks and understands very well. We talked for 30 minutes about futbol, Mindcraft, Star Wars, Legos and friends.

Then his little sister came barreling out of the house, yelling for me to run. I asked where and started into the house. Soledad was yelling help,
or something like that, from the kitchen.
I walked in to find the stovetop engulfed in flames about two feet high. It was a grease fire, so I knew not to put water on it. I tried to move the pan, but everywhere I turned were things that were flammable. I put it back down and tried to think of the right words, quickly, for "I want a big flat plate to put on top of the pan, so I can smother the flames." Try to say that calmly to an hysterical mama that thinks her house is about to burn down. Somehow I got my point across, and we got the flames down to manageable, but not out. I just couldn't get a good seal on the pan. I then walked out the front door with a grease flambé in hand. Once I got outside, I was able to remember the words for baking soda, soda bicarbanata. That comes from shopping for Susan, while she was laid up with a bad back. For the brownie recipe. Yum!

So that put out the fire, once and for all. We all breathed a little sigh of relief and walked back into the kitchen, to survey the damage. The flames had melted some of the range hood implements and darkened some of the wall, but nothing too serious. Close call.

Then I saw the big fire extinguisher, extintor, sitting on the wall. That would have been a good idea, too, except it was out of date sometime in 2007. Soledad got that fixed the next day.

So English words we taught the kids:


  1. Now that's a fire!
  2. Where's a freaking cover for this pan?
  3. Get me a hot pad! My hands are catching fire!
  4. What were you cooking?
  5. What the h#@^?
  6. What's the number for 911? (By the way, in Spain it's 112)
Well that was a productive English lesson, with a little Chemistry and Emergency Management thrown in the mix too. Not a bad first lesson.

07 October, 2013

Futbol Sala

6 October, 13

Katherine plays Futbol Sala, or indoor soccer, in Spain. This was her first foray into Spanish immersion, and I am so proud of her for it. None of the girls on her team speak more English than, "Hello." One of her coaches, Pedro, speaks pretty good English, and actually tutors my girls in Spanish. Kilian doesn't even know, "Hello."

This is an Under-14 team, so most of the girls are actually Elizabeth's age, which creates quite a gap in size. As you may be aware, girls in this age range can vary dramatically in body shapes and sizes. Katherine is Lilliputian compared to these giants, but she has worked very hard and earned their respect. The girls are all very nice and have welcomed Katherine as much as a mascot as a player.

Sunday was Katherine's first match. She is a portera, or goalie, which is the same position she played in the USA. The girls here are toting cannons for legs, however, so I was a little nervous for my little daughter. Katherine sat out the first half, while Miriam, the other portera, played. We were ahead 4-1 at halftime, so Katherine had a nice lead to start off.

We ended up losing 8-5. Not a great beginning to Katherine's futsal career. It wasn't pretty, but Katherine played hard, making several good stops. I cringed at every goal, expecting to hear THAT parent say something under her breath about how, "Maybe they should give her a little breather, bless her heart." I'm sorry, but it's almost always the mama that does that. The daddy is too busy dog-cussing the ref to be worried about the players. It's a nice division of labor, actually. That's the closest they probably get to teamwork all week long.

It helped not being able to speak the language, but I don't think the parents were really being that bad. They were actually encouraging the girls and the team, even Katherine. That was nice. Coming here is hard enough without having to make Susan post bail for me, after I knock out somebody for talking bad about my baby girl. I am a Redneck after all and civility only goes so far.

Fireworks

7 October, 13

I was born a Sandlapper. Down in South Carolina, fireworks are abundantly available to anybody that can fog a mirror and pay. Evidently the rest of the USA doesn't allow such reckless frivolity, because at every major highway crossing the SC state line, you will find a Black Cat fireworks stand, the most obnoxious one being Pedro's South of the Border in Dillon. You can view Pedro's billboards from Cuba to Canada on I-95. They get the kids so lathered up, you just gotta stop, but it's kind of like a politician--a lot of pomp and circumstance along the way, but very little delivery on the back end.

We used to shoot off fireworks all the time back home. We would while away many hours throwing bottle rockets and shooting Roman candles at each other. One of my favorite activities was to play chicken with a firecracker. The basic rules were to hold on as long as you could, letting go just before the big bang. This is particularly thrilling in the colder months, when your fingers are numb. I really cannot understand why these other states have outlawed fireworks. That's probably why we have a generation of mushy Nintendo kids, instead of firecracker warriors. I ask you which is a better use of opposable thumbs--firecracker chicken or Halo 5? My mama always said, "That TV will fry your brain." Now all you can do is give the little 3 year olds those balls of fire we call sparklers.

Fireworks are illegal in Spain, too. In fact, that is the case in most all of Europe. Somewhere, however, there has to be a Pedro's, because the chicos have been cutting loose with some thunder-makers lately. These fireworks make M-80s and Cherry Bombs sound like little kiddie pop guns. This is the stuff you go to see at Clemson Homecoming.

I finally figured it out.

Our town is having a festival over the next two weeks, and part of it involves setting off fireworks. Even the church got into it. This morning at 7AM, yep 7AM, the church starting ringing all their bells and setting off fireworks to beat the band. For a good solid 30 minutes. So we had kids at midnight blowing up the park for about 30 minutes, then the church this morning. Not the kind of sleeping aids I was looking for.

I am not sure why the church started setting off fireworks as part of a religious celebration. I think there once was a crazy old redneck monk one time that said something like, "Hey, y'all watch this!" He was probably trying to catch some fish. (If you're not a redneck, you won't get that.)

Of course we do have a lot to celebrate within the Church, and I am willing to bet that attendance on Sunday mornings would skyrocket, if we used a little fireworks display every now and then. I guess if you really believe in what you're preaching, you probably should cut loose and let everybody know about it in a really big way. Make some noise and celebrate! Heck, in most USA churches, you can't even clap. No wonder people don't want to come.

Fire 'em up preacher!!

04 October, 2013

Parent/Teacher Conferences

4 October, 13

As a kid, I dreaded Parent/Teacher Conferences. It was that time of year when I could be outed as a ill-behaving miscreant. The other time was the comment section of report cards. "Little Dan is a pleasure to work with in the classroom, bless his heart. He needs to focus in class and try to keep his hands to himself. If you see a sacapunta laying around, please return it to school, so all the other kids can have sharp pencils."

As a parent, I dread them for the same reason, but in the opposite direction. I don't want to hear how my precious little angels have been terrorizing their classmates. I don't want to know they are struggling in school. All I want to hear is how pleasant and smart they are and how they are basically living out the Boy Scout laws:

Trustworthy
Loyal
Helpful
Friendly
Courteous
Kind
Obedient
Cheerful
Thrifty
Brave
Clean
Reverent

I might have left a couple out, but I quit Boy Scouts before I made it to Eagle, so what do you expect?

So it was with great fear and trepidation that Susan and I headed into our first Parent/Teacher Conferences here in Spain.

The first hurdle was that they were in Spanish. Foreigners. You would think everybody would speak English here. I mean, come on! It's 2,000 freaking 13 already.

Honestly, we were expecting the teachers to say something along the lines of, "What were you thinking? Get these kids out of here!" What we got was, "Y'all are brave (their word was valiente)!  How can we help?" Man, that was a cup of cold water to a guy in the desert. In an institutional environment, it is sometimes easy to slip into "I don't care" mode. We all get there sometimes. These teachers, though, are gung-ho. They are willing to translate tests for the girls. They have allowed Elizabeth to carry a Samsung Tablet around, so she can use Google Translate and other tools. They are going to email us homework assignments. All our girls have to do is show up and work.

That is exactly what they have been doing, too. Katherine was counting to us in French the other day. Earth to us! We are in Spain, and Katherine is learning French. Elizabeth is texting her friends in Spainglish. We are struggling with math word problems, however. Google Translate is not always perfect. See for yourself:

Spanish
Gasto 1/10 de lo que tengo ahorrado en mi hucha; después, ingreso 1/15 de lo que me queda y aún me faltan 36€ para volver a tener la cantidad inicial. Cuál es el precio actual?

English
Spending 1/10 of what I have saved in my piggy bank, then income 1/15 of what I have left and I still have € 36 to regain the initial amount. What is the current price?

Even after we figured out what the problem was really saying, we still couldn't answer it. I called Kirk, and he did it in his head, while he was driving. Jerk.

So the next time you have a parent/teacher conference, whichever side you might be on, remember that at least you are both speaking English, even if you aren't speaking the same language.

01 October, 2013

Waiting

1 October, 13

I hate to wait. Lines are inefficient and designed for cattle. I am not cattle. I am Wolf.



At wedding buffets, everyone comes to the reception and waits in a line that is 2 miles long, while Granny stews over whether or not to get the pickled beets, because you know how that affects her. 423 items on the buffet are not being touched. The carver is falling asleep in the corner. Bread is turning stale. Shrimp are walking off the table. Granny just can't decide.

Lines are logical and helpful. They get everybody occupied, tranquilized and paralyzed, while Wolf moves in for the kill. I grab a plate and dart in and out of the cattle, seizing my prey as I go. Chicken here. Something that looks like pâté there. Roast beef on toasted points and some horseradish. By the time the last person in line gets to the buffet, I have already picked it cleaned. Nothing there but pickled beets, cattle-boy.

Lines are great, as long as I have control of them. In fact most things in life are great, as long as I have control. I am sure I'm alone on that one.

What happens, though, when somebody else has control of the line? Chaos. Wolf doesn't know what to do. He shifts restlessly from paw to paw. He bays, scratches at the dirt. He gnaws at the cage.

Spain is one big line.

You can't get anything done around here without stopping at one of two places--the bank or a government office.

Generally speaking, our daily experience with banks in the US is pretty positive. You drive up. A teller attends to your needs within about 30-45 seconds, which, I know, seems like an eternity. She smiles and gives you a sucker. You drive off, happily whistling that Jimmy Buffet song that you love so much.

Not so in España, gentle reader. There ain't no drive-thru nothing. You walk in, like the rest of the little people. You stand in line. Sometimes you even have to take a number. And you wait. If all anybody did was cash paychecks and make deposits/withdrawals, this wouldn't be so bad. Nay, nay.

  • You can't start school, without a trip to the bank.
  • You can't get a cell phone, without a trip to the bank.
  • You can't rent an apartment, without a trip to the bank.
  • You can't get insurance, without a trip to the bank.
  • You can't cop a squat, without a trip to the bank.
To compound the problem, you will NEVER find more than 2 employees in the bank. So more people have more reasons to go to the bank, yet the banks have less people to deal with the onslaught. Lines. And no sucker. Wolf is bearing his fangs.

Government offices are worse. Think about the DMV on a Monday morning. Now do that everyday over the course of a week, for every aspect of your life. 

As I stood in line one day, I came to realize that this was a nefarious plot on the part of dark forces deep within the Spanish government, or maybe the Illuminati, to mollify an entire population. It is a beautiful scheme, really. Tell the people they can have anything they want. All they have to do is go to this bank or that government office to process the paperwork. Simple. Evil.



Waiting is a millstone that grinds the kernel of productivity into the fine flour of complaisance. Wolf is now Society's lap dog, eating canned mush. It's really not that bad, once you get used to it...


30 September, 2013

One Month In

30 September, 13

Yesterday marked one month in Spain. It feels like one year. Since we arrived, we have done the following:
  • Spent a week at the beach with Julio, Toñi, Julia and Alvaro. We needed that to unwind from the frenzy of moving.
  • Spent a week in front of some government employee or other. I will be writing about waiting soon. You'll have to wait for it.
  • Spent a week coordinating school and finding a place to live. Our time in Ikea is another post.
  • Spent a week working through the kinks of school.
As I write this, I am amazed at how neat and tidy that looks, because in reality, it was more like a hockey game, and we were the puck.

School has been an up in the air question since Day One. Our original intent was to put them in the same school as Julia. It has a bilingual, really trilingual, track and a sturdy curriculum. Then we thought home-schooling would be great, because it would allow us the freedom to travel the rest of Europe. We got excited about that, but when we arrived, our friend in the school system told us that wouldn't fly in Spain. So we were back to public school, Instituto De Educación Secundaria (ies) Alquibla

When I attended the parent meeting for 7th graders, I learned that parents and school administrators are pretty much the same anywhere in the world. The administrators sit up front and talk a lot about nothing. Then the parents ask all the questions the administrators didn't think about. Then, "What about my little Juan? Why can't he..." "Well, Señora Lopez, your little Juan stole the sacapunta and destroyed a classroom with chili powder last year, so we don't think he would be a good fit for this class." Blah, blah, blah.

Katherine's class is using Samsung tablets. All of her assignments are virtual. I have to admit that I am pretty impressed so far. Her English teacher, however, speaks horrible English. Katherine almost asked her to just speak Spanish, as it would be easier to misunderstand. She even corrected Katherine's English one time, saying it was incorrect. I told Katherine to just give her the bird and smile next time. They don't use that sign here.

Elizabeth seems to be content with doing the minimum in her classes. She is relying on friends to tell her what is happening in class, and they normally respond with, "Nothing. You're good." I have made her start to translate her books into English, much to her chagrin.

Susan's back went out in Week 3. All the way out. Susan has an incredible pain tolerance. When she says she hurts, that would normally be dead for other people. She was weeping in agony from the pain and could get no relief from any position. We have been applying heat and ice, TENS machine and drugs to get it under control. We are also on our third set of mattresses. It is finally getting better.

Meanwhile, I am living the Life of Reilly. I have taken much of the cooking/cleaning/shopping duties, which is fine. I write in the mornings, shop during the day and ride bikes with friends in the afternoon. Totally unfair.

All of us have had Homesick Meltdowns somewhere along the line over the past month. Katherine, the cuddle in my lap child, wouldn't even look at me the other day. She was mad. Her big issue is that she is a perfectionist, and being here really screws that up. She is working so hard to get on top. She will make it and be better for it. Katherine is putting a headlock on this challenge, and I promise, Spain will tap out before it's over with. After her meltdown, we got back to cuddling again, too.

Elizabeth still won't tell me she loves me, except on my birthday, which was last week. It's her way of punishing me. She continues to be affectionate. We laugh and play, like always, but when I say, "I love you", she remembers that she is supposed to punish me. She has made many friends and seems to be adjusting well. As soon as she gets her mind right about work, she will soar in this environment.

Susan has been a little depressed, mainly because she has been imprisoned by pain. She can't really leave the house, because walking was out of the question. That is changing now, however. We spent a couple of hours in Ikea the other day, and she was OK for that. Susan will find her niche with a couple of ladies and begin to spread her special brand of love. If you are a friend of Susan's, you know exactly what I mean.

Meanwhile, I am living the Life of Reilly. My ultimate goal is to begin a Stop Hunger Now affiliate in Spain. I need to learn Spanish and identify some key leaders to get that started. I am well on my way in both departments. 

So, onto the next month. What in the world will that bring?

29 September, 2013

How we got here

29 September, 2013

Several people have asked us how we got here in the first place. I am sure we have explained that to many of you in the past few months, but not in this blog. So here goes.

In a previous post, I talked about how Susan spent three months in Spain with her girlfriend, Alicia, who subsequently married Antonio. He and I became fast friends. Our first meeting was in Washington, DC in 1995, while Alicia and Antonio were still dating. In 1998, Susan and I travelled to Spain with a large contingent of Americans, about 15 of us, for ten days after Christmas.

We spent most of the time in Velez Rubio, which is a tiny hamlet compared to La Alberca. Many of Antonio's friends, about 20 of them, came for a grand fiesta. We cooked tapas over an open fire oven in the kitchen of his grandfather's house, which is about 300 years old. The whole time was incredible. The foreigners were checking us out. We were checking out the foreigners. Some jokes translate well. Others do not. It was a great moment in international relations.

We also spent time in Granada, which is a fascinating city. For 800 years, Muslims, Jews and Christians lived in peace and solitude in and around Granada. La Alhambra is one of the most magnificent castles in Europe and overlooks the city, like a doting parent to a child. Antonio took us to restaurants and flamenco halls dug out of caves in the side of the mountain.

The one thing I knew for sure when we got back to the USA was that I was going to return to Spain for another vacation. And we did, several times. Each time we returned, I had a deeper love for the people and the country.

Susan and I have also travelled several times to Peru and Nicaragua on missions trips with our church. Every time I am in a Spanish speaking country, my heart swells with affection toward the people. I don't really know why, but sometimes you don't need to know everything. God has a plan, and we are just a small part of it. That is both humbling and comforting at the same time.

So that encapsulates about 20 years of our lives. Now fast forward to April, 2013. Susan and I were sitting in Best Buy, talking about the future, because that's what you do in Best Buy, right? We were thinking through the possibilities of buying an insurance agency in another town, such as Greensboro, NC, which is a nice place to live and has great potential for growing an agency.

Then I asked her a question that changed everything.

"If you could go anywhere and do anything, where would you go and what would you do?" 

It is a hard question to answer, far too open-ended. Even unfair to ask. But I asked it. It really started opening our minds to new possibilities. Why were we limiting ourselves to Pinehurst or North Carolina or the east coast?

Or America?

Could we move to Spain? We could move to Spain. We could move to Spain? We could move to Spain!

Many conversations later, many prayers later, many doubts and hopes and fears later, here we are. In Spain. Together. As a family.

That still might not satisfy some of you, but I guess you will need to keep reading my blogs to assemble the rest of the story. Stay tuned!

28 September, 2013

Pepi the Butcher

24 September, 13

Part of my daily or every other daily routine is a trip to the carniceria, the butcher shop. It is one of my favorite places to go. If you ever shot a deer, you had to clean it. I will save you all the macabre details, but suffice it to say that I was fascinated with the whole process. I still am. I think I was meant to be either a serial killer, surgeon or undertaker. Probably the latter to avoid incarceration and lawsuits, as I tend to lose focus too quickly to be successful at the other two, and I am also a pretty good salesman, which helps with undertaking.

So my fascination with meat is being fed quite well by Pepi and her butcher brethren. You can walk in and see all sorts of animals hanging around, waiting to be chopped, dropped and plopped on a platter. Pepi literally lights up the room with her smile and good nature. She loves what she does, which is so hard to find anywhere. Her staff shares her enthusiasm. It is obvious with every stroke of the cleaver, every slice of the knife. I have seen that look of satisfaction on a few faces in my life. Pearl Fryar in Bishopville, SC is one of them. He creates topiary landscapes just because he loves it. My mama in a classroom full of students . Grandaddy driving a 16 penny nail into a 2x4.

I told Pepi the other day how much I loved coming into her shop, instead of a place like Wal-Mart, and I began to riff on how much I love everything here, even the local beer, Estrella de Levante, which you can only find in Murcia. She walked into the cooler and opened a beer for me on the spot. Juan, her husband who runs the cash register, would not let me pay for it.

Pepi's attitude about work begs the question, why are so many of us doing things that we hate? Are we living to work or working to live? Is all that stuff that we have accumulated worth all that painful, thankless toil in a job that does not bring us joy?

Paychecks or Passion?